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Rolex

Acquired

Mar 05
Acquired

Acquired

Mar 05

Shownote

Rolex is a series of paradoxes. They sell obsolete and objectively inferior mechanical devices for 10-1000x the price of their superior digital successors… and demand is stronger than ever in history! Their products are comparable to a Hermès Birkin bag in price, luxury status and waitlist times… yet they produce over 1m units / year (roughly 10x annual Birkin production). They make the most universally recognized and desired Swiss watches… yet their founder wasn’t Swiss and didn’t start the company in Switzerland! If Rolex were publicly traded, they’d almost certainly be among the top 50 market cap companies in the world… yet they’re 100% owned by a charitable foundation in Geneva that (among other things) literally just gives away money to local people in the city. Tune in for one of the most fascinating and admirable companies we’ve ever covered on Acquired. We had an absolute blast making the episode, and hope you enjoy it as much as we did! This episode was released on February 23, 2025. Sponsors: * Legora: https://bit.ly/acquiredlegora [https://bit.ly/acquiredlegora] * Vanta: https://bit.ly/acquiredvanta [https://bit.ly/acquiredvanta] * ServiceNow: https://bit.ly/acquiredservicenow26 [https://bit.ly/acquiredservicenow26] * Statsig: https://bit.ly/acquiredstatsig26 [https://bit.ly/acquiredstatsig26] Links: * The Renaissance of the Swiss Watch Industry - Marc Bridge [https://atpresent.substack.com/p/the-renaissance-of-the-swiss-watch] * HODINKEE - Inside All Four Rolex Manufacturing Facilities [https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/inside-rolex] * “If you were…” campaign [https://www.watchprosite.com/rolex/if-you-were-reading-the-new-yorker-tomorrow--you-d-wear-a-rolex-/732.1577316.15622151/] * Worldly Partners’ Multi-Decade Rolex Study [https://worldlypartners.com/businesshistory] * Episode sources [https://docs.google.com/document/d/13jbg_6wzcNt7KwCbJAiKhJ0ifcsgkh8AowXoovIfkiU/edit?usp=sharing] Carve Outs: * Bluey [https://www.imdb.com/title/tt7678620/] * Acquired on Armchair Expert [https://open.spotify.com/episode/6xGGNXHVEVrEqH0kh0xbbz?si=mzd5tDwOTcOIh8zScIqk2A] * Eleven Reader [https://elevenreader.io] More Acquired! * Get email updates [https://www.acquired.fm/email] with hints on next episode and follow-ups from recent episodes * Join the Slack [http://acquired.fm/slack] * Subscribe to ACQ2 [https://pod.link/acquiredlp] * Merch Store [https://www.acquired.fm/store]! © Copyright 2015-2026 ACQ, LLC ‍Note: Acquired hosts and guests may hold assets discussed in this episode. This podcast is not investment advice, and is intended for informational and entertainment purposes only. You should do your own research and make your own independent decisions when considering any financial transactions.

Highlights

This podcast delves into the fascinating world of Rolex, a brand renowned for its paradoxical nature. It explores how Rolex has managed to thrive despite selling mechanical watches in an era dominated by digital technology. The discussion covers the brand's origins, innovations, and strategies that have contributed to its unparalleled success in the luxury watch market.
09:12
Hans Wilsdorf moved to Geneva after boarding school, developing an interest in Switzerland.
32:44
Hans Wilsdorf came up with the name 'Rolex' while on a bus in London.
1:04:34
Rolex used Mercedes Gleitz's swim as a marketing stunt to showcase the Oyster's waterproof capabilities.
1:31:35
Rolex patented a self-winding system with a perpetual rotor in 1931.
1:55:43
Rolex shifted focus from product technology to brand signaling in the 1950s.
2:19:40
Omega was standard-issue for Apollo missions, but some astronauts preferred Rolex GMT-Masters.
2:32:55
Paul Newman's Daytona sold for $17.5 million at auction.
3:05:50
Rolex now makes up 30% of the Swiss watch industry post-quartz crisis.
3:11:44
Rolex imported whole watches while Omega allowed local agencies to design cases.
3:31:42
Patrick reduced suppliers and built brand lore through vertical integration.
3:48:57
Rolex bought Boucheret to prevent rivals gaining insights into its sales.
4:19:59
Rolex owns prime real estate globally and participates in Geneva's philanthropy.
4:47:57
Rolex repositioned itself after the quartz crisis as watches evolved from utility to self-expression.

Chapters

How a Bavarian Orphan Built a Global Watch Empire
00:00
Why Did Rolex Move to Switzerland?
27:18
The Waterproof Revolution: How Rolex Conquered the Seas
56:08
Inventing Time: Rolex's Self-Winding Innovation
1:16:15
Surviving Wars and Recessions: Rolex's Resilience
1:38:01
Iconic Watches That Defined Eras
1:58:59
From Racetracks to Auction Blocks: The Rise of Daytona
2:25:55
Quartz Crisis: A Turning Point for Swiss Watches
2:47:39
Rolex's Strategic Bet Against Quartz
3:08:59
Building a Legacy: Leadership and Marketing Strategies
3:25:59
Authorized Dealers: The Secret to Rolex's Success
3:40:57
Market Dominance: Rolex's Financial Impact
4:04:59
Luxury Reimagined: Rolex's Competitive Edge
4:25:28

Transcript

Ben Gilbert: All right, David, what's on your wrist? David Rosenthal: Well, currently on the wrist is my stainless, white-faced Daytona that my dad gave me. I think it was still quite popular when he gave it to me, probably close to 15 years ago, but not ...