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Valerie Steele on Why Paris Won’t Ever Be Dethroned as the Capital of Fashion

Time Sensitive

2019/08/14
Time Sensitive

Time Sensitive

2019/08/14
In this episode of Time Sensitive, fashion historian and curator Valerie Steele discusses her lifelong fascination with Paris as the global fashion capital, her unconventional path from dropping out of school to earning a PhD at Yale, and the challenges of establishing fashion as a serious academic discipline. She also reflects on the psychological and social dimensions of clothing, the rise of luxury menswear, and the evolving role of fashion in culture.
Steele explains that Paris's dominance in fashion is a centuries-old cultural and economic construction, reinforced by luxury conglomerates like LVMH and Kering that blend art with commerce. She recounts her own journey from a lesbian-feminist commune to becoming 'the Freud of fashion,' noting academia's persistent dismissal of fashion studies despite popular exhibitions. As chief curator and director of the Museum at FIT, she prefers thematic exhibitions that connect subculture and high fashion, such as those on gothic style or queer history. Steele critiques the accelerated fashion cycle and cultural appropriation, while emphasizing that clothes serve as a second skin for social communication and identity. She concludes that fashion is now recognized as a significant, expressive industry, influenced by the internet and social movements.
02:30
02:30
She is known as the Freud of fashion.
06:37
06:37
Paris embraced fashion as a sign of modernity.
28:26
28:26
Fashion can be studied intellectually.
37:41
37:41
Curating is like making a film.
52:52
52:52
Japanese avant-garde fashion is recognized as art.
57:09
57:09
Shoes are powerful symbols of identity and empathy.